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DIY Precision voltage reference box

Posted by on September 12, 2012

Upon request here’s the schematic for the precision voltage reference box:

The schematic is also available as a PDF here: precision_voltage_reference_sch.

I don’t have clean gerbers since I toner-transferred the PCB, but if anyone wants the layout I’ll upload it as well. I personally used BNCs for the output of each reference.

A note about the output capacitors: They’re quite important for stability, make sure you read the datasheet to understand why!

For extra stability and reliability you should use a shielded enclosure as well.

Compared to buying proper calibration references, the price of this whole box is quite accessible and just about anyone can build it.  At 0.05% for these references, I’d say it’s pretty darn good for most home labs.

To think back in the day you would’ve used a mercury D cell and a fairly accurate thermometer to obtain a “trustworthy” DC reference! — I’m sure most HAMs would attest to this!

 

Cheers,

Gus

 

PB 5.00 b2 released

Posted by on August 31, 2012

http://www.purebasic.fr/english/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=51120

Quite interesting feature list, however the most important one happens to be the support for multi-dimensional arrays on structures, which used to be impossible by native means prior to this version.

I think the next logical step would be to add serialization for the structures. I’m not sure why they are focusing so much on wrapping OGRE… but whatever. I asked Fred about structure serialization, sadly it seems it’s a “low priority” feature for the PB team… :(

Even for the game development enthusiasts being able to serialize the game state structure by a simple means of calling a native function would be a lot more “pure” than writing an entire descriptor with a custom serialization routine, or actually writing one set of functions per structure.

Native support for JSON would be interesting as well.

But the ultimate feature could well be a scripting engine with the same syntax, fully integrated with the actual programming environment of PB. There have been a few attempts at this, but nothing too serious or complete enough to be used in the real world…

One can only hope, right?

Cheers.

 

A journey through Acer tech support…

Posted by on August 23, 2012

I recently got a free LCD that didn’t work, I went ahead and inspected the caps on the power supply, some were bad so I recapped it.
The LCD worked for about a week, then it developed a stuck pixel and suddenly it died again, same symptoms.

Couldn’t bring it back to life, so I decided to buy a new scaler board. Problem is, the actual part number is nowhere to be found, but I did find similar ones. Question is, are they compatible?

I asked the eBay seller, he didn’t know.

The journey begins…

 

Armed with the serial number We visited the Acer support site, just to find out a silly, paid “Answers” system, we went ahead and asked on IRC about support and got a chat URL, proceeded to enter the details of the product and ourselves…

Serial…

ETL23020224380047DED03

Is the product listed? yes. (Exact Model number was given)

We wait on queue for 4 minutes to chat with an “agent”… (Smith?)

Names have been changed. The agent was however Indian, I’m not being racist; just a bit humorous.

Indian Guy: Hi, my name is Indian Guy. How may I help you?
GuShH: Hi, I’m looking for a compatibility list on motherboards for this specific LCD. My supplier doesn’t stock the actual part number anymore, but I noticed there are lots of similar boards Acer made.
Indian Guy: I will certainly check our records and provide you the requested information.
GuShH: Thank you
Indian Guy: You are welcome, GuShH.
GuShH: I believe the original one was Acer MAIN BD.VL731.LAR598F.NO-IC
Item No.: 55.L23V2.051

GuShH: But there’s no stock left, only in the UK and the costs are too high for us.
GuShH: On this LCD the actual board is “JP577 VL-731 REV:1B”
GuShH: The VL-759 looks very similar, but I’m not sure if it’s compatible.
Indian Guy: I understand that, GuShH.
Indian Guy: GuShH, please note that Acer do not sell parts. However, I can give you part partners link where you can purchase all Acer parts for your computer.
GuShH: I’m only interested in the compatible mainboards for this particular LCD model. The supplier didn’t know which ones were compatible.
Indian Guy: All right, GuShH.
GuShH: (They don’t stock the original part number anymore)
Indian Guy: I can understand that, GuShH.
GuShH: Do you have a tech contact email for Acer LCDs?
Indian Guy: Yes, GuShH.
Indian Guy: I understand that you are looking for the motherboard which is compatible for the AL1912 b LCD monitor. Am I correct?
GuShH: Yes sir.
Indian Guy: Thank you for confirming, GuShH.
Indian Guy: I am searching for the information, GuShH.
GuShH: Thanks
Indian Guy: You are welcome.
Indian Guy: May I place the chat on hold for 3 minutes, while I retrieve the information for you?

GuShH: Sure
Indian Guy: Thank you, GuShH.
Indian Guy: I’m sorry it would take some more time. Please give me another 2 minutes.
GuShH: No problem
Indian Guy: Thank you, GuShH.
Indian Guy: GuShH, thank you for staying on line. I appreciate your patience.
Indian Guy: I checked our records, database. As you said there are many motherboards available in the market which might be compatible with this Computer monitor’s model.
GuShH: Question is which ones :(
Indian Guy: We do not have that information.
Indian Guy: However, we see that this computer monitor supports the resolution 1280 x 1024.
Indian Guy: To check the compatibility of the computer monitor.
Indian Guy: It is necessary that the video card in the motherboard should support the resolution which is mentioned 1280 x 1024.
GuShH: Could you tell me which monitor model this specific mainboard belongs to? VL-749 AR599GC
Indian Guy: I can understand that, I was not able to provide you the exact motherboard model which is compatible with the monitor.
GuShH: That’s the board the supplier currently has on stock.
Indian Guy: Unfortunately, we do not have that information.
Indian Guy: However, I cab provide the specification of the computer monitor which you are mentioned in the link provided: http://support.acer.com/acerpanam/monitor/0000/Acer/AL1912/AL1912sp2.shtml
GuShH: Thanks. On the other hand since I can’t find the specific mainboard for this monitor, I wondered if there’s a database where the mainboards are referenced to the model numbers of the LCDs, so I can find one that works for this product.
GuShH: I take it Acer does not design nor manufacture any of the internals, nor the actual LCD panel and it’s just a brand name then.
Indian Guy: I can understand your concern, GuShH.
Indian Guy: All I was able to find in our database is the part number for the model(AL1912 b) – ET.L2302.033.
GuShH: Alright thanks Indian Guy, hopefully I’ll be able to find some information with the part number ET.L2302.033.
Indian Guy: You are welcome, GuShH.
You have disconnected.

 

And then?…

Well, the given part number is useless, already had it — In fact that’s the number for the white version, the black version ends with 044. Was my question about a tech support email answered? — Not really.

And what is it with all the arse kissing these agents do?

Complete waste of time.

So here’s what I’m going to do… I’m going to order the board that “LOOKS” similar and is listed for this model, then I’m going to wait and hope it works when it does arrive; if it does arrive… Thing is, Aside from this board, there’s nothing else worth doing with such an old unit…

I’m aware about the multiple revisions and versions with multimedia options, different output interfaces and other crap. As long as the connectors are the same and it’s designed for a screen with the same or higher native resolution, it should work – In theory.

 

This isn’t how things should be done, I shouldn’t have to gamble on parts and “hope it works”… Why don’t you get your $$#% together, Acer? — And the same goes to every other company out there. If you don’t make it yourself because you are cheap and you’d rather have other companies bidding on your project requirements, at least make sure you get all the information you need and that you reference it with that particular product number and any other numbers that share the same or equivalent parts, so you may provide this information to technicians, alright?

Jeez.

 

 

Air Compressor Maintenance 101

Posted by on August 14, 2012

Here are a few guidelines on how to keep your air compressor working optimally. Even if you own a cheap air compressor, keeping it lubricated, free of water accumulation and with proper air filtering you’ll be able to extend it’s working life and obtain a trustworthy tool for years to come.

 

Oil, Lubrication

Your air compressor is basically an engine, and as such it requires constant lubrication to prevent excessive friction from damaging the moving parts and ultimately seizing the piston/s.

Regularly check the oil level, some compressors will have a dipstick on the oil cap, others will have an oil level gauge like this one:

The oil gauge on an inexpensive air compressor showing the level is OK.

These are just as easy to read, the red dot represents the “OK” mark (I don’t know why they paint it red, should’ve been green) – Ideally you want to keep the oil level within the center of the dot, but as long as the level is within the dot, you are OK.

On these it’s also easier to judge the state of the oil by looking at it with a flashlight, you can often see whether it’s getting milky (water) or darker (regular wear) without having to remove a sample from the crankcase.

 

Oil is regularly lost through the exhaust and the breather hole on the crankcase. Oil also ages and because of this, you should replace the oil after a certain amount of duty hours. The actual time depends on many factors and it’s best if you obtain the manual for your particular compressor for a clear indication on when to replace the oil.

 

Non detergent lubricants are preferred, make sure you respect the viscosity the manufacturer suggests for your particular compressor.

It’s also important not to overfill them with oil as you can cause several issues, if the oil level is too high the oil can get whipped and it will foam up, losing some of it’s properties but most importantly it will gain volume, further increasing your problems.

So keep checking with your dipstick/gauge as you refill with oil and make sure your unit is perfectly level to the ground when you do this.

To remove the old oil there’s going to be a bolt at the bottom side or the bottom of the crankcase in all air compressors, all you need is a wrench. Make sure you remove the oil when it’s warm and to speed up the process even further, also remove the filling cap so you don’t draw a vacuum.

 

Purging

As the compressor’s intake happens to be our breathable atmosphere, humidity in the air is sucked in on every cycle. It doesn’t help that the compressor head heats up during it’s this compression cycle. As water will condensate and accumulate in the tank/s, it’s imperative to purge the tank/s at least once a week.

A common type of release valve found on most small to medium sized compressors.

Purging is easy, locate the release valve at the bottom of the tank and open it, once relatively little water comes out, close it. You don’t have to empty the tank/s every time you purge, but it is recommended you do so if you plan to store the compressor for a long period of time. If you feel the purge valve doesn’t seem to open all the way, close it and open it again; there could be some sludge blocking it.

For extended periods of storage, drain the entire tank and remove the purge valve entirely, leave it open so the water can drip and dry on it’s own. Make sure to place the purge valve cap in a secured location so you don’t lose it!

If you don’t purge, the water will rust the tank’s envelope and ultimately a puncture will occur. The tanks are naturally coated with oil from the compressor, but it can’t always protect the steel from rusting. The more that water sits in there, the worse it’ll get in time.

To automate this task there are several solutions on the market, but some are rather expensive. These are basically solenoid valves with a timer, some work by venting after a compression cycle (that is, when the tank is filled up, a bit of pressure is released to remove the accumulated water). These solutions are often implemented in big compressor setups. More commonly are timed interval purge valves that will open once a designated period of time, usually you set them to once a week.

If you were to roll your own, the hardest part would be finding a solenoid valve that is rated for your maximum operating pressure and that also couples to the existing fitting on the tank. The circuit would be a simple timer. I would personally implement it using a micro-controller so I can have the long timer (let’s say 1-7 days) and then a one-shot output for the relay that would ultimately drive the solenoid valve. By using a uC you are open to many possibilities such as a warning alarm before the purge cycle to alert anyone around the tank.

 

Air filtering

The quality of the air entering the compressor is important, for one to protect the compressor head but also to reduce impurities in the air source, if you are going to be spray painting then you’d already have a filtering system in place, but reducing the amount of pollutants will help extend the life of those filters. It’s also worth mentioning that some air filters will have a silencer built in, to reduce the noise of your compressor; so that’s worth checking out!

If you are going to stick with the original foam filter on your cheap air compressor, you can spray a bit of filter oil to improve it’s performance, the way you apply it is by spraying some on the foam and then squeezing the foam so it penetrates throughout. You only need enough so the dust will stick to the oil and become suspended on the foam, you don’t want to use enough oil that it drips because this will clog the foam and also introduce excessive oil into the air stream.

A cheap alternative to the plastic foam filters is an automotive oil filter, these can work with plain air just fine and they have a very convenient thread size, all you need is a male adapter since both ends would be female. You could check out the air filters for scooters and small motorcycles, but they may not have the same thread size. You definitely don’t want to use a smaller thread size as this will constrict the intake flow and increase the noise as well.

 

With these simple guidelines your air compressor will run properly for a very long time, take -your- time and follow them thoroughly!

Cheers.

 

Thanks HaD!

Posted by on July 3, 2012

Thanks Stephen and Hack a Day for the feature on home-made flux!

Charlotte Approves.